Saturday, December 29, 2018

Classic Wing Sauce

3/4 cup Franks hot sauce
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 
8 tablespoons butter 
 

Additions to taste
Black Pepper
Garlic Powder
Cayenne Pepper


Combine, Franks Hot Sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and your choice of additions in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Pull the sauce from the heat* and add cold sliced butter about a tablespoon at a time, stirring to incoorperate. 

For spicier, add cayenne pepper. 
*Note, you pull the sauce from the heat before adding the butter so the sauce doesn't separate.

Friday, November 16, 2018

Kentucky Fried Chicken at Home, Close as you will ever get.



In 1964, Colonel Sanders sold his chicken franchise to John Y. Brown, Jr, Jack C. Massey, Pete Harmon, and investors Lee Cummings and Harlan Adams, who in turn sold it to Pepsico, who in turn spun it off into Yum brands. I am not going to go into the entire history of the changing of the guard that brings us to today's KFC, you can read about it here: WikiPedia, HistoryofKFC. My only concern is a 1984 lawsuit between KFC Corp and Marion Kay Co,. Inc. You see Harlan Sanders was still operating restaurants up in Canada and felt the seasonings had been watered down, so to speak. He turned to an Indiana company, Marion Kay to reverse mix his seasoning blend. He was not able to tell Marion Kay what was in the blend for contractual and trademark reasons but to my taste buds, they hit the nail on the head in their recreation of the secret blend. You can read the lawsuit that later ensued here: KFC CORP. v. MARION-KAY CO., INC.

So what is the spice blend that Marion Kay created for Harlan Sanders? That I do not fully know, however you can purchase a container of it here: Marion Kay https://marionkay.com/?s=flake+salt&post_type=product recommends 2 tablespoons of the spice blend be mixed with 4 cups of flour, I actually bumped it up a bit and did 3 heaping tablespoons of the spice mix with 1 tablespoon of flake salt. I used a deep fryer and some of the Colonel's breading techniques based on the way he did it in a YouTube video, which can be seen here: Colonel Sanders making chicken at the Clinton KFC



Sanders also used soft wheat flour, I recommend cake flour such as Swans Down Cake Flour. https://www.swansdown.com/about/


4 Cups Cake Flour
3 Tbsp 99X Chicken Seasoning
1 Tbsp fine flake salt
1 brined chicken, patted dry. (see note*)
1 egg 
1 cup milk
Raised Cookie rack, set it over a large pan or cutting board.

Using a large mixing bowl, combine flour and seasonings using a whisk, set aside. In a pie pan whip egg and milk together. Coat chicken using a four-step process. Toss the chicken pieces through the flour mixture one at a time, setting each on the raised rack after it is coated. 2. Working with one piece at a time, dip the floured chicken into the egg wash allowing excess to drip off. 3. Toss the egg washed chicken through the flour, return the chicken to the raised rack. Allow the chicken to rest on the rack for 25 minutes until the flour has absorbed into the egg wash and the chicken looks gummy. Toss each piece through the seasoned flour again before frying. 




I move the pan and rack to an oven at this point and set the oven on its lowest setting. Move chicken to rack after frying and keep it warm till all chicken is fried. 

A word on gravy, I like to use the crackling grease (2 to 3 tbsp) from the bottom of the pot, then I use the seasoned flour, chicken stock, and milk to create a gravy.
Brine 
1 quart
1 Tbsp + 2 1/4 tsp sugar
1/3 cup kosher salt
1 heaping tablespoon chicken seasoning.

Brine for at least 3-5 hours
Here are some tips and tricks for turning out a crispy crunchy and juicy fried chicken.
1. Never fry refrigerator cold chicken, your oil temperature will drop the second you add the chicken to the oil. This will throw off the entire dish in more ways than one. Allow the temperature to return to 350 before adding the next batch. 
2. Never crowd the chicken in the fryer or the pot. That crust needs to have unfettered contact with that hot oil to crisp up and room to let the steam bubbles escape.   Cook only a few pieces at a time. It is worth the extra time and effort. 
3. Flour, use a softer lower protein flour. Cake flour is a great secret for fried chicken. All Purpose flour turns out a hard thick bready crust, rather than that delicate shattering crispy crust, I don't like it. 
4. Brining, definitely brine your chicken. Frying causes moisture loss, those bubbles in the frying oil, that is moisture escaping. I do a salt/sugar brine and water. drain the chicken well after brining and pat with a paper towel. Also, throw a tablespoon of the seasoning into that brine. 
5. Building a crust that sticks, it is a four-step process. 1. Toss chicken in seasoned flour in an oversized tall bowl. 2. Dip chicken in an egg-milk wash, let excess drain drip back into the bowl.3. Toss chicken through the seasoned flour. 4. Allow chicken to rest on the raised rack for 25 minutes and then one last toss through the seasoned flour. 
6. Use a raised cookie rack to set you chicken on after it is breaded, allow it to sit for 25 minutes till it starts to look a little gooey, toss it back through the flour for a double coating.
7. For a lighter coating only run it through the breading process once. Pure preference for single or double breading. 
8. Use popcorn or flake salt and fine ground seasonings.  Flake salt is usually a special order item, however, popcorn salt is easy to find. Why? Popcorn and flake salts are very light and float in the flour rather than sinking to the bottom. Your seasoning should all be finely ground so they float in your flour and cling to it.
9. Deep fryers are great to use, you can regulate the temperature easily and see if it drops. I now favor a cast iron deep fryer pot and a thermometer. Cast iron retains heat and prevents the temperature of the oil from dropping too much. 350 is the temperature you want. One other good option is a wok, the thing I find the most important is that the chicken floats, I don't like contact with the bottom like you get in a pan. 
10. Seasoning your flour, rule of thumb is 1 tablespoons seasoning to 2 cups of flour. I sometimes do a little more... again preference. 
11. Fry dark and light meat separately, breast meat cooks faster. 
12. Watch those bubbles, like popping popcorn when you hear the kernels almost stop popping you know it is done. When the bubbles slow down, the moisture level in the chicken has dropped. Having said that, see below for timing. *
13. Break the big thigh bone before cooking, this is a restaurant trick that allows faster cooking as thighs take the longest to cook. 
14. You can keep your chicken warm in the oven at 200, however, make sure it is sitting on a raised rack. Never set chicken onto paper towels or directly in a pan, the heat will steam your crust soggy.
15. Use an oversized tall bowl for tossing the chicken, toss the using your hands at least 7 times in the flour.
If you would like to make Kentucky Fried Chicken Cole Slaw, I have posted a recipe on this site here:KFC Coleslaw, not a copykat... the formula is more simple than you think..

If you are not going to buy the seasoning then below are some suggestions:
White Pepper
Black Pepper
Ground Sage
Ground Coriander
Ground Savory
Ground Rosemary
Ground Thyme
Ground Marjoram
Ground celery seed
Paprika (sweet)
Fine Plain Popcorn Salt
The two types of pepper and the flaked salt are very important. Table salt will fall to the bottom of your bowl rather than float in the salt. 

.



Thursday, March 29, 2018

Pancit Canton beef



1/4-1/2 Pound tenderized sliced beef (use kiwi)
1 Pound Canton Noodles or spaghetti if preferred
1 Onion Sliced into slivers
8 Cloves Garlic peeled, smashed and minced.
4 Ribs Celery washed and sliced
3 Carrots peeled and julienned
2 Cups Chopped Cabbage
1 tbsp Oyster Sauce
2 tsp Fish Sauce
2 tbspToymansi
3 Cups Beef Broth
Pepper to taste

Optional, sliced portabella mushrooms


Green Onions to Garnish

Saute garlic and onion until it just tender, add beef, cook until browned, add vegetables, Toymansi, fish sauce, pepper and beef broth. Bring to a boil, add noodles toss noodles until separate and cooking, lower to a simmer.  Stir dish until liquid is absorbed. Garnish with chopped green onions

Friday, March 16, 2018

Potato Pancake

1 Jumbo Potato, baked and scooped out and cooled
knob of butter
2 Jumbo Eggs
1/2 Tspn onion powder
1 Tbsp sugar
A generous sprinkle of Salt
Nice Hint of pepper
Healthy pinch of salt-free blackening seasoning
4 Tbsp sweet corn
2 thinly sliced green onions (green part only)
4 Tbsp minced onion
1 Cup buttermilk pancake mix (instant, add water only type)
Water, a little less than directed


Scoop out baked potato into a bowl, using a fork work the butter and salt through the potato mashing as you go. Add eggs and incorporate, add all seasonings, onions, and corn. Add Pancake mix and water and stir. Use a gravy ladle to make dollar sized pancakes. Pan fry in avocado oil until crispy and dark golden.

Thursday, February 1, 2018

Famous Barr's French Onion Soup, Susan's Version




2.5 lb. Sweet Onions Vidalia, Walla Walla or the like
2.5 lb Yellow Onions
2 Tbsp Olive or Avocado Oil
3/4 stick Unsalted Butter 
4 whole bay leaves
1 1/2 Tbsp Paprika (buy fresh, don't use cheap, Hungarian sweet)
4  Healthy Taps ground cloves
2 Tsp fresh Cracked Pepper
4 Tbsp A/P flour or 6 Tbsp Wondra flour
1/2 Cup Burgundy or Chardonnay, I use Burgundy
3 Quarts beef stock, au jus, or strong beef broth
1 or 2 Tbsp Kitchen Bouquet, add a little at a time till you get the right color

French Baguette Crouton  
1 1/2 Pounds Swiss Cheese, grated or sliced



Slice onions 1/8 inch thick, Saute’ the onions until golden brown and caramelized but not burnt. Sprinkle a little salt and a pinch of sugar on onions while sauteeing.  When onions are golden brown, add paprika first and incorporate well, add cloves, salt, pepper, and glutamate if using. Sprinkle flour over onions and cook for a minute or two. Add Burgundy or Chardonnay and deglaze the bottom of the pan. Quickly stir in 3 quarts of clear beef stock, au jus or strong beef broth in about three additions stirring completely each time to work the flour through the broth.  Add bay leaves cover and simmer for about 30 minutes. If soup appears too thin, add  Makes 3 quarts.

 To serve: Ladle soup into earthenware cup or bowl. Place 2 slices French baguette (cut about ¼ inch thick to cover surface) on top of the ladled soup. Bread should cover the surface of the soup (you are building a life raft for the cheese).  Top with generous portion of grated Swiss Cheese.  Place in a 350-degree oven and bake until cheese has browned and formed a crust, about 10 Minutes.

Note (You really don't want to just broil this. It might brown and melt it, however, it will not form a crust and become sort of nutty in flavor). When baked, the cheese will puff up, form a crust and brown. Broiling simply melts it into the soup.



To prepare the baguette, place a whole loaf in a 350-400 degrees (depends on your oven) oven for 10 minutes The crust should be browned and crisp. Tip: Slice it on its side with a decent bread knife and it won't compress as much.

Remove and serve immediately. Serves 12. 

Notes.

Make the soup the day before and refrigerate overnight, the flavor is much better. Heat soup through and assemble the Gratin the next day.

I don't use the monosodium glutamate
Use fresh cracked pepper
Use Ground Cloves
Use "fresh" Sweet Hungarian Paprika (do not use old paprika or cheap, you will regret it).

Wednesday, January 31, 2018

In Search of the Famous Barr Soup of my memories



Which is the real Famous Barr French Onion Soup Recipe and who developed it? I think the answer is probably both Chef's Dahl & Zettl's recipe are correct and original depending on what years you ate there. Onion Soup Au Gratin' can be found on the Famous-Barr Tea Room Menu as early as 1942.

Erich Dahl was hired as the Food and Beverage Manager in 1948, Dahl speaks of researching the soup in Paris and specifically mentions the restaurant Pied De Cochon. Dahl said Chef Jan Verdonkshot took his suggestions and developed the French Onion Soup Recipe. Verdonkshot's daughter Renee claimed her father did not create the soup.

This brings us to Manfred Zettl. Zettl was the Executive Chef for Famous Barr during the years I walked to the Clayton, MO store to eat the soup. Zettl's recipe calls for paprika (probably Sweet Hungarian) Kitchen Bouquet Browning Sauce and Kraft Swiss cheese grated. Dahl's recipe calls for a hint of clove, no paprika, and Gruyere Cheese.

I could never bring myself to use canned beef broth and I think Famous Barr may have been taking some of their au jus drippings from the french dip roasts to strengthen the beef stock. I personally save juices from a roast in the freezer and make my own beef stocks. I know that many restaurants use Minor's Beef Base and or Au Jus Concentrate. This can be ordered over the internet or a restaurant store. There is also Better than Bullion Beef Base at most grocery stores. Famous likely used Minor's or a similar product.




Which Cheese to use? I have tried both Gruyere and Kraft Swiss and the latter had the right consistency. I recommend using both the paprika and a few taps of ground clove (just a little) along with the Kitchen Bouquet.

Which Onions to use, sweet Bermuda or regular yellow onions (you can't buy Bermuda anymore but they were sweet) I use half Vidalia and half Yellow.

Lastly, the cooking time on the onions varies greatly. Dahl doesn't specify a cooking time but states until golden brown. Zettle says about 15-20 Minutes and the internet recipe say's to cook the onions for an hour and a half. I think the most important thing is not to burn the onions as they turn bitter. I have always found an hour and a half excessive but have done it on the lowest setting stirring occasionally. I would do what Zettle says.

Compare all three recipes below:


CHEF MANFRED ZETTL'S FRENCH ONION SOUP

Executive chef Famous-Barr Company, St. Louis, 1964-1974

Ingredients

8 cups onions, peeled and sliced

1/8th-inch thick

2 ounces olive oil

2 ounces butter

2 tablespoons paprika

2 tablespoons coarse ground black pepper (or 1 tablespoon of fine-ground black pepper). You may wish to grind your own pepper. Be sure to choose a coarse setting.

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon salt, or to taste

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 quarts beef stock

1 cup, optional, red or white wine

2 tablespoons Kitchen Bouquet liquid

seasoning

16 slices, 1/4 inch apiece, French bread

2 cups grated Swiss cheese

Loaf of French bread as accompaniment

Preparation

Peel onions, cut in half, then in half again, then in 1/8th-inch slices. In a large sauce pot, heat olive oil, and butter. Add and sauté onions over medium heat, until translucent. Approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

Add all seasonings except Kitchen Bouquet. Blend well. Add flour, stirring constantly. Immediately add beef stock. Add wine, optional.

Bring to a boil, check for taste. Add kitchen bouquet for a bit of color. Simmer slowly for 20 minutes, when the soup is ready to serve.

Use oven-proof bowls or the traditional brown crock. Bowls should hold at least 8 ounces. Place 6 ounces of soup in the bowl, top with two slices of French bread and 1/4 cup grated Swiss cheese. Place in 450-degree oven, top shelf, for 10 minutes, until cheese starts to brown and soup bubbles. Be very careful when serving. Will be very hot.

French bread, as typically sold here, is white on the inside and "way underbaked." Put a loaf of store-bought French bread on a rack in the 350-degree oven, about 10 minutes. Bread should have "a beautiful crust," brown enough that "you can hear when you slice it." 

Recipe and article at the following link:

http://www.westendword.com/Articles-Features-c-2012-04-11-179903.114137-SOUPS-ON.html#123

 French Onion Soup


‘FAMOUS-BARR’ FRENCH ONION SOUP AU GRATIN
Chef and Famous Barr Food and Beverage Director Erich Dahl beginning in 1948
  • l lb. Bermuda onions
  • ¼ lb. butter
  • 4 whole bay leaves
  • 5 whole cloves
  • 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. glutamate (opt.)
  • 1 tsp. flour
  • 1/3 c. Burgundy wine (opt.)
  • 2 qt. beef stock, au jus, or strong beef broth
  • French bread croutons
  • 1 lb. grated French Gruyere or Swiss Gruyere
Slice Bermuda onions paper thin.  Saute’ the onions until golden brown in approximately ¼ pound of dairy fresh sweet butter.  (A copper-lined saute’ pan will give the best results.)  When onions are golden brown, add bay leaves, cloves, salt, glutamate, Burgundy wine (optional) and freshly crushed black peppercorns.  Add 2 quarts of clear beef stock, au jus or strong beef broth (bouillon cubes may be used as a substitute).  Simmer slowly for another thirty to thirty-five minutes.  If soup appears too thin, add Beurre Manie which consists of 2 tablespoons of melted butter and 1 heaping teaspoon of all-purpose flour.  Makes 2 quarts.
To serve:  Ladle soup into earthenware cup or bowl.  Place French bread croutons (cut about ¼ inch thick to cover surface).  Top with generous portion of grated French or Swiss Gruyere cheese.  Place under broiler approximately 5 minutes or until cheese melts.  Remove and serve immediately.  Serves 8.

Recipe and article at the following link:
http://archive.is/B509X



French Onion Soup recipe with purchase of McCoy Soup Crocks at Famous Barr



The above recipe can be found on multiple internet sites





This is one of my beef stock recipes.

(This is a double batch, I put half in my freezer for the next time)
6 Quarts Water
4 Tbsp Beef Better than Bullion or Minor's Beef Base
2-3 Meaty Beef Shanks
1 Cup Burgundy
10 Peppercorns
3 Bay leaves

Sear Shanks in a dutch oven with just a little butter and pepper. Add Water, bullion, bay leaves, clove, peppercorn, and burgundy. Cover and place in oven at 400 degrees for 30 minutes, turn heat down to 325 degrees and let the ingredients braise for 2 1/2 Hours or until it is reduced by almost half. Remove from oven, allow to cool, *remove shanks and reserve for another use (think dogs). Pour liquid from Dutch oven, through a fine mesh strainer, into a soup pot.


Beef Shanks

The purpose of doing this in the oven instead of the stovetop is it reduces better in the oven.


Susan's Version


2.5 lb. Sweet Onions Vidalia, Walla Walla or the like
2.5 lb Yellow Onions
2 Tbsp Olive or Avocado Oil
3/4 stick Unsalted Butter 
3 whole bay leaves
1 1/2 Tbsp Paprika (buy fresh, don't use cheap, Hungarian sweet)
4-6  Healthy Taps ground cloves
2 Tsp fresh Cracked Pepper
1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. glutamate (opt.) I don't use this.
4 Tbsp A/P flour or 6 Tbsp Wondra flour
1/2 Cup Burgundy or Chardonnay I use Burgundy
3 Quarts beef stock, au jus, or strong beef broth
1 or 2 Tbsp Kitchen Bouquet, add a little at a time till you get the right color

French Baguette Crouton  
1 lb. grated Swiss 



Slice onions 1/8 inch thick, Saute’ the onions until golden brown and caramelized but not burnt. Sprinkle a little salt and a pinch of sugar on onions while sauteeing.  When onions are golden brown, add paprika first and incorporate well, add cloves, salt, pepper, and glutamate if using. Sprinkle flour over onions and cook for a minute or two. Add Burgundy or Chardonnay and deglaze the bottom of the pan. Quickly stir in 3 quarts of clear beef stock, au jus or strong beef broth in about three additions stirring completely each time to work the flour through the broth.  Add bay leaves cover and simmer for about 30 minutes. If soup appears too thin, add  Makes 3 quarts.

 To serve: Ladle soup into earthenware cup or bowl. Place 2 slices French baguette (cut about ¼ inch thick to cover surface) on top of the ladled soup. Bread should cover the surface of the soup (you are building a life raft for the cheese).  Top with generous portion of grated Swiss Cheese.  Place in a 350-degree oven and bake until cheese has browned and formed a crust, about 10 Minutes.

Note (You really don't want to just broil this. It might brown and melt it, however, it will not form a crust and become sort of nutty in flavor). When baked, the cheese will puff up, form a crust and brown. Broiling simply melts it into the soup.



To prepare the baguette, place a whole loaf in a 350-400 degrees (depends on your oven) oven for 10 minutes The crust should be browned and crisp. Tip: Slice it on its side with a decent bread knife and it won't compress as much.

Remove and serve immediately. Serves 8. 

Notes.

Make the soup the day before and refrigerate overnight, the flavor is much better. Heat soup through and assemble the Gratin the next day.

I don't use the monosodium glutamate
Use fresh cracked pepper
Use Ground Cloves
Use "fresh" Sweet Hungarian Paprika (do not use old paprika or cheap, you will regret it).